The movement is the self-winding FC-718 calibre, made in-house, visible through the sapphire caseback. The dial is designed with a subdial for the date which obscures the reading of the time in a few zones. All settings are made using the crown, which eliminates the pusher that is usually used for changing the time-zone. Then comes the 24-hour ring with its day and night sectors, and lastly the city ring that can be rotated from the crown in order to set the time zone of the time shown by the hands. The dial has a decorative world map at the centre, with the hour markers around it. This watch has a case is in rose-gold-plated stainless steel, 42 mm in diameter and 12 mm thick. Frederique Constant Manufacture WorldTimer – from €3,195 The Ball Trainmaster Worldtime has an export price of 2,350 Swiss francs, €2,100. The case is 41 mm in diameter and – considering the dial design – fairly slim at 12.5 mm. The hour and minute hands, and hour markers, are luminous, with light provided by micro gas tubes, powered by H3 (tritium), producing light that is initially 100 times more intense than SuperLuminova, with a lifetime of 25 years. The movement is chronometer-certified by COSC. The 24-hour display and the local time are adjusted separately using different positions of the crown. The watch is powered by the Ball RR1501-C calibre, which is basically the ETA 2836-2 that has been modified, adding a 24-hour output that in this piece is used to drive the 24-hour world time ring. The Ball Trainmaster Worldtime is similar to the Tissot Heritage 160th Anniversary in that it is a modified GMT watch, but unlike the Tissot, the appearance of the Ball watch is wholly analogous to the most advanced and complex world time watches listed further down this page. The calibre is self-winding, running at 4 Hertz, with a power reserve of 46 hours. The watch is large at 43 mm diameter, slim at 10 mm, water resistance 3 bar, and it has a sapphire caseback that displays the ETA 2893-3 movement. The local time is read off the non-rotating bezel. You simply set the city ring at one crown setting, and the local time at another. The major difference between this watch and the classier world time watches further down this page is that there is no way of rapidly changing local time when you change time zones. The city ring is adjusted from the crown. In 2013 the brand released the Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary as a limited edition, and there is still a limited availability on the Tissot website. The city ring rotates once every 24 hours and so shows the approximate time anywhere in the world. In 1953, Tissot brought out a watch that incorporated a brilliant intuition: you can make a world time watch using a movement used for a simple GMT display – usually a hand on a 24-hour scale – by replacing the 24-hour GMT hand with the city ring.
Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary – €1,470 Published 21 November 2017, last updated 10 March 2018. Here is a selection of the top ten world timer watches available on the market today. I think that if 2017 was the year of the moon phase complication, 2018 will see some new arrivals amongst the world timers. It’s a distinctive complication, with not many contenders: it is the territory of the great watch brands who do everything in-house such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre. At this point, at a glance you can see the time, and day or night status, for each of the 24 whole-hour time zones. World timer watches have a 24-hour ring that makes one revolution in 24 hours, and a cities ring that can be adjusted from the crown or using a pusher in order to set the time zone corresponding to the hour and minute hands.
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